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Instant Spring

Series: Roots and Shoots | Story 2

Welcome to Instant Spring, Montana style. Although the sunny days are far from warming the soil, the snow is gradually sinking into the ground and it’s certainly warming my heart and energizing me for some planting.

As I peer daily at the seed trays, waiting for that first peek of a green seedling, I am reminded at the wonder of a seed. I’m amazed at what a seed is, and what it does. Seeds are packages of dormant genetic material with spectacular capabilities - a miraculous design waiting to come alive.

Henry David Thoreau said, “I have great faith in a seed. Convince me that you have a seed there and I am prepared to expect wonders.”

If you want to start some of your own plants for the garden, check out the time needed to grow transplants. Lettuce takes 4-6 weeks to grow to transplant size. Bulb Onions take a minimum 16 weeks. Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage 5-6 weeks, Squash and Cucumbers 2-3 weeks, Herbs are variable 6-10 weeks, Peppers take minimum 8-10 weeks, Tomatoes can be started 8-12 weeks ahead as long as you keep putting them in bigger pots.

Our job as gardeners is to encourage the seed to break dormancy with proper temperature and moisture, then to grow and produce optimally with light, healthy soil, space, temperature and adequate water. When we start seeds in the house, we have to manage all the parts. When I first think of planting for transplants; I start with potting soil that doesn’t have additives for moisture and such. Then I add in my own additives, like 20 percent screened compost, or worm castings. Moisten the potting mixture so it will loosely hold a fist shape when you squish it. Fill the seedling pots, six packs or what you have. Make sure there are drainage holes if you’re reusing yogurt cups or similar. A general rule of thumb is to plant seeds 2-3 times their width. Plant 2-3 seeds per cell in a six pack and plan on thinning to one plant per cell. Labeling is critical, and the jury is still out on the best system. Sharpie pen on plastic silverware works well in the house. It doesn’t last in the garden though. Water the seeds gently so that all your work isn’t washed to the edges of the pot. Then I lay plastic loosely over the top to keep moisture in. The top of the pot will dry out first, and you want it to stay damp. I use the cereal bags that come in the cereal box. Daily check the trays and water gently, even if they aren’t dried out completely. When the seeds sprout, remove the plastic. After there are three sets of leaves, start fertilizing with a very diluted amount once a week. I use fish emulsion.

**You’re invited to a Garden Get-Together Saturday March 27 at 2 p.m. We’re meeting at the Heritage House. Speakers will be Conner from The Pollinator Initiative, and myself on the topic of Seed Saving. We will have an informal seed swap afterwards and talk about starting a seed library for the area. I will have some books on Basic Seed Saving available for $5.

 

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